More Than a Pile of Stones

Human made stone piles, called cairns, have been erected since ancient times as burial monuments, trail markers, or related to astronomy. Some cultures use them to locate caches of food. This cairn was found on the beach next to Minard Castle on the Dingle Peninsula, Ireland. It sat atop a massive pile of rocks most likely placed there to prevent erosion. 

Minard Castle

The Old Testmant records the placement of a marker stone in 1 Samuel 7:12 NRSV: "Then Samuel took a stone and set it up between Mizpah and Jeshanah, and named it Ebenezer (stone of help); for he said, “Thus far the Lord has helped us.” Some Christians will remember the second verse from the hymn, Come Thou Fount of Every Blessing: "Here I raise mine Ebenezer; hither by thy help I’m come...."

Then, sometimes a pile of stones is simply a pile of stones to indicate someone has been in this place. 

Sheep Alert!

Road hazards moved around, especially in the first part of Ireland we visited: Connemara in County Galway. Most of the sheep roamed freely and were quite often grazing at the side of the road. The roads had no shoulders and the lanes were significantly more narrow than ours in the U.S. ... if there even were two lanes. So, round a curve, come over a rise and surprise! Sheep in the road! Lamb resting on the edge of the pavement!

View fullsize

The color on adult sheep is a way of identifying to whom they belong: branding. While on our tour of the Dingle Peninsula, I queried our guide about this since I had noticed only two colors in use: pink and blue. Yes, only two colors, but each owner's marks were on different parts of the sheep's body. So much for my analytical observational skills.

Dublin—City of Fast Walkers

We returned the car to Hertz before heading into the city by taxi. With only a day and a half in Dublin, we eased ourselves back from our rural experiences by visiting Stephens Green Shopping Center and Grafton Street.

Stephens Green Shopping Center

The last day we walked 5.6 miles, 14,740 steps according to my phone, around the center of the city. (Why is it easier to walk farther than you normally would when visiting new places?) The weather was beautiful.

Grafton Street

I have been in many cities, but in Dublin, where we were, every street was full of people walking very quickly (very quickly!) to somewhere: shoppers, students, business people, tourists. I wonder if the same is true on cold, rainy days? At Trinity College (home of the Book of Kells),  we entered and quickly exited the extremely crowded gift shop. 

Temple Bar Area

The Aran Woolen Shop was the most interesting because we were waited on by a sweet young Islamic woman and an older Irish man. While there, we met a young woman from Tokyo. Hearing the variety of languages spoken on the streets, it was clear Dublin is an international city. At our hotel restaurant (Ashling Hotel), Karla was from Brazil and was one of our waitresses. Her husband works for Google. They moved to Ireland 6 months ago and she was just beginning her job.

Ha'penny Bridge

We walked across the Ha'penny Bridge which celebrated 100 years of service this year. It was the first pedestrian bridge to span the Liffey River (which runs through the center of Dublin). A century ago, the fee to cross—a ha'penny, of course.

Mostly, we just absorbed the ambience of the city before heading to the airport very early on our last day in Ireland.

A Different Ireland for Us

Turrock Cottage

None of our other stays were anywhere near large or even medium size cities. With the appearance of being even more rural, our four days and three nights at Turrock Cottage in County Wicklow were absolutely grand. Oh, to have planned more days there! Still ....

Owners Dierdre Starr and Ciaran Sloan are the kindest, gentlest, most delightful people you will ever meet. Their hospitality began with fresh eggs and homemade scones waiting on the kitchen table.

Ciaran Sloan and Dierdre Starr

What is so different about Turrock Cottage?

Donkeys.​

Ducks​.

Roosters ... and chickens. 

A chick.

Geese ... and ...

... three week old George. 

Oh, and three cats plus Scooby the dog.

And the beauty of nature. 

The view from Turrock Cottage loft

My Favorite Castle

Have you ever felt a mysterious tug on your soul to a place you have never before visited?

Rahinnane Castle  

Rahinnane Castle, Dingle Peninsula, Ventry, Ireland

When traveling to Ireland was still a dream and tentative plans were barely being considered, I happened across a photo and description of a castle. I knew if I ever made it to Ireland I had to go there. But, it is on private property. Internet reviews said permission had to be given and access is not guaranteed. If granted, wear boots. It could be muddy, and, well, there are cows and sheep.

By the time we were committed to the trip, I had already located the castle on Google Maps. I knew exactly where it was on the Dingle Peninsula and I knew how to get there.

Rahinnane Castle is a short distance outside the small village of Ventry. We stopped at the house and had a wonderful conversation with the owner. Like our son in South Korea, she had a daughter who taught English in several foreign countries. She requested 2 euros, each, to visit the castle. I would have paid twenty. The great thing is that once on the hill, we were allowed to explore anywhere outside and inside the castle, for as long as we wanted ... and, there was no one else there!

Rahinnane Castle

"As you leave the village, if you look straight in front of you, about half-way up the hill, you might be able to make out a circular enclosure within which a ruined building stands. This is Rahinnane Castle and Ringfort (Caisleán Ráthanáin)." —  http://www.dingle-peninsula.ie/ventry.html

Rahinnane Castle

"Here at Rahinnane an earthen ringfort dating to between 300 and 1000 AD was chosen in the 15th century by the Knight of Kerry as the site for a castle. Separated by a large ditch or fosse about 30 feet deep are two earthen banks, which, long before the castle was built, enclosed a busy farmstead, with houses, sheds, workshops and animal pens. The defences of this ringfort were not for military purposes, but were to keep out wild animals and as a protection against cattle raids which were common in Ireland at the time...." (site marker)

Free-standing arches (arcading) 

Rahinnane Castle interior

 "The castle inside the fort is a two-storeyed rectangular tower. The ground floor was probably used for storage, while the hall was situated on the upper floor and has unusual arcading [free-standing arches]." (site marker)

Rahinnane Castle interior

"The old ringfort defences were strengthened when the castle was built. Rahinnane was attacked and destroyed during the Cromwellian Wars." (site marker) 

It was a great experience having the opportunity to be inside, outside and all around the castle. 

Beehive Huts—Clochans and More Skellig Michael

Gallarus Oratory

The Gallarus Oratory was one of the best parts of our tour of the Dingle with Mr. Begley (see below). Unlike the Beehive Huts of Skellig Michael, Gallarus Oratory is rectangular. Clochans are made solely of stones carefully laid one on top of another, tilting slightly outward and down to allow rain to run off rather than enter the structure.

Gallarus Oratory  

Beehive Village at The Kerry Cliffs

Traditionally, Gallarus Oratory is described as a Christian church. Some historians refute this due to a lack of evidence. Suggested dates for construction range from the 6th to the 12th century.

The circular Beehive Huts of Skellig Michael were used by monks for centuries for shelter and worship. The Beehive Village at The Kerry Cliffs are similar in construction to those on the island. 

The Kerry Cliffs claims to have the "Best land view of the Skelligs." The extreme wide angle nature of the panorama below makes the islands appear much smaller than in real life. However, the best place to view them is at the end of the sidewalk on a very narrow promontory.

  "Best land view of the Skelligs" — The Kerry Cliffs

The Skelligs are actually two islands: Skellig Michael (Greater Skellig) and Little Skellig. Without a doubt the best view I had of the islands was at The Kerry Cliffs. They are about 8 miles off the coast. The distance, atmospheric conditions and the iPad editing apps (perhaps my limited editing skills) produced a somewhat surrealistic image. However, look closely. I believe the Beehive Huts can be identified on the upper left, one quarter of the way down from the top, as well as numerous tiny boats ferrying visitors to Skellig Michael.

Skellig Michael

So, why didn't we join them? There was some concern about motion sickness on very small boats. Excursions leave at 10am, return at 3pm with 2 - 2 1/2 hours on the island to climb 700 steps to the monastery. Even if my knees could make the climb, Helen's fear of heights would keep her at the bottom, all 5 hours are without ANY bathroom facilities! Our mid 60s bodies just cannot do that. Very disappointing. Still, I love my photos. 

Diarmuid Begley

Mr. Begley provided a tour of the Dingle just for us. A very enjoyable and informative four and a half hours, especially his descriptions of life growing up near Dingle in a time when many families, including his own spoke only Irish (Gaelic to Americans).

Dingle Peninsula Films—Star Wars

Hollywood film locations are what make the Dingle Peninsula best known to many tourists – Ryan's Daughter, Far and Away, and Star Wars: The Force Awakens (7). As it turns out, we were on our guided Slea Head tour of the Dingle when we were delayed by security guards because Star Wars 8 was actually filming.

We were finally allowed to pass, after being told to put "the camera down." Our guide was quite adamant about the request being ridiculous. Somehow, my camera captured this shot.

The set was on the other side of the hill. It was said the helicopters transport the actors to the sets from their lodging further inland. The celebrities are not staying on the Dingle Peninsula. 

Some of those tiny people might be Star Wars stars. Is that Luke Skywalker? 

Around the next bend, on another promontory, with the right camera equipment and a "little" editing ...

Star Wars 8 filming on distant promontory  

The road is steel to protect the ground

Star Wars recreation of beehive huts on Skellig Michael Island.

Scenes from Star Wars: The Force Awakens (7) were filmed on Skellig Michael. Recent winter storms caused serious damage to island structures, not the beehive huts. Delayed access may be the reason facsimiles were created. Visits to the island were not reauthorized until only a couple of weeks ago. 

To the Ring of Kerry

Saturday, May 21st, we made our way from Fanore to the south-southwest corner of Ireland and the Ring of Kerry. Although the third picture, below, is the view we enjoyed first from the Ring of Kerry, directly below is the one that captured my attention. After settling into our new "home," I wanted to go for a ride on the Skellig Ring scenic drive. Three-quarters of the way around, we came upon a beautiful, isolated beach with a handful of homes nearby. The color of water was amazing, the waves were thundering, and Skellig Michael was on the horizon. Perfect! (More on the island, later.)

Skellig Michael

Portmagee, Ireland  

Most boats (all?) carrying visitors to Skellig Michael leave from Portmagee.

Portmagee, Ireland  

Dingle Peninsula from the Ring of Kerry 

Waterville, where we are staying, is a long, long way from any large population center, which is quite fine with us.

Waterville, Ireland accommodations  

Did I mention sunrise is 5:20am and sunset is 9:45pm? — 16 hrs 25 minutes of daylight, and the sky is still light well beyond 10pm! Amazing!

Ring of Kerry Sunset

Rock of Cashel and Hore Abbey

Rock of Cashel

"According to local mythology, the Rock of Cashel originated in the Devil's Bit, a mountain 20 miles (30 km) north of Cashel when St. Patrick banished Satan from a cave, resulting in the Rock's landing in Cashel. Cashel is reputed to be the site of the conversion of the King of Munster by St. Patrick in the 5th century." (Wikipedia) 

Rock of Cashel

"The Rock of Cashel was the traditional seat of the kings of Munster for several hundred years prior to the Norman Invasion. In 1101, the King of Munster, Muirchertach Ua Briain donated his fortress on the Rock to the Church.... Few remnants of the early structures survive; the majority of buildings on the current site date from the 12th and 13th centuries." (Wikipedia)

Rock of Cashel

"In 1647, during the Irish Confederate Wars, Cashel was sacked by English Parliamentarian troops under.... The Irish Confederate troops there were massacred, as were the Roman Catholic clergy.... [The] troops looted or destroyed many important religious artefacts." (Wikipedia)

Rock of Cashel

Rock of Cashel

St. Patrick's Cross at the Rock of Cashel

Hore Abbey

"The former Benedictine abbey at Hore was given to the Cistercians by Archbishop David MacCearbhaill (in 1270), who later entered the monestery. He endowed the Abbey generously with land, mills and other benefices previously belonging to the town." (Wikipedia)

Hore Abbey

"A story that is much cited by tour-guides is that he evicted the  Benedictines after a dream that they were about to kill him. This is unlikely to be true and probably arises from the Archbishop's 'interference' with the commerce of the city of Cashel." (Wikipedia)

Hore Abbey

Helen is ready to conduct the choir in the area reserved for the choir. 

Hore Abbey

Hore Abbey

Church and Abbey in County Clare

Two hundred plus years of U.S. history seems old until one is walking through ruins whose foundations are approaching 1000 years old. Carron Church in County Clare served the largest of all the Parishes in Clare until the 16th Century. "It was built around 1200, but much of what we see today ... dates from the 15th century." (site marker)

Carron Church

The Cistercian Order came to Ireland in 1142.

Corcomroe Abbey  

[Corcomroe Abbey] was founded in 1194 by Dónal Mór O' Brien, King of Thomond." (site marker)

Dónal Mór O' Brien  

"The English Reformation led to the dissolution of Catholic monasteries in England and Ireland. In 1554, the abbey was granted to the Earl of Thomond. The monks continued to tend the fields and maintain the abbey as circumstances allowed, but the political climate led to continued decline. The last abbot, the Reverend John O'Dea, was named in 1628." (Wikipedia) 

Corcomroe Abbey

Corcomroe Abbey  

Corcomroe Abbey  

The Burren

 "It is a country where there is not enough water to drown a man, wood enough to hang one, nor earth enough to bury him." - Edmond Ludlow, a Lieutenant General during Oliver Cromwell's conquest of Ireland.

Where the area we previously visited, Connemara, was rocky and harsh, the Burren is rock on top of rock. It is southwest of Galway in County Clare, north of the Cliffs of Moher. It is a much smaller area encompassing about 96 square miles.

The Burren is limestone eroded over the past 10,000 years after being scraped and gouged during the last glacial period. It's unique climate supports alpine, Mediterranean and Arctic plants.

What remains of my B.A. studies in geology kept me fascinated by the topography. 

This valley in the photo below is on the eastern side of the Burren. Note the rock strata (layers) on the hilltops. The corkscrew curves of the road in the foreground must be a challenge for cars when tour buses are present. Fortunately, no  buses were in the area when we were there!

Poulnabrone Dolmen and Life Perspective

The Portal Dolmen (burial place) at Poulnabrone was erected c. 3400 BCE. Excavations have found the remains of 20 individuals implying a reverence for the dead. It's shape and orientation towards the east might suggest "a religious attitude to the heavens." (The Burren, Kilfenora, The City of Crosses, A Ramblers Guide and Map)

Poulnabrone Dolmen

Life Perspective

 "A good photograph is knowing where to stand." - Ansel Adams

Life is like that, too. The view from where we look strongly impacts how we see. With the camera close to the rock formation, low to the ground and pointing upwards the Portal Dolmen appears enormous. Sometimes, we can be so close to an issue or a problem or an obstacle that we are unable to examine, analyze, and assess it appropriately. Often, it is essential that we step back in order to reevaluate what we perceive, to understand better the size or importance of what is before us.

As the photo below indicates, a little distance, a little space, more information can dramatically alter our comprehension.

Poulnabrone Dolmen on The Burren

Flowers and the Cliffs of Moher

Sunday, May 15th was a slower day. We rested in the morning and walked up the steep road behind the house enjoying the wild flowers along the way.

In the evening, I wanted to visit the Cliffs of Moher.

Cliffs of Moher

I knew the descending sun would add drama to the edges of the sharp rock faces.

Cliffs of Moher

Last year, one million people visited the park. When we arrived Sunday evening, the parking lot was less than 1/3 full and admission and parking were free. 

Cliffs of Moher

On to Fanore

After a little delay in our trip from Kilkieran to Fanore, we were still able to make it to our new "home," Crumlin Lodge, before nightfall. 

Looking north at Fanore, Ireland

Driving on the left, on extremely narrow roads, in the dark is not high on my list of fun things to do in Ireland. 

Sunset from the front of Crumlin Lodge

According to one of my photo apps, Crumlin Lodge sits 108 ft above the ocean. It has a white roof and is centered in the image below. It is a former B&B with several bedrooms, living room, sitting, room, dining room, and of course a full kitchen. By the week, these vacation cottages are less expensive than B&Bs and we are able to have breakfast, prepare lunch sandwiches and cook about half our suppers. Plus, we get to shop where the locals shop. The nearest supermarket is 30 minutes away on those narrow, left lane curvy roads! I am getting more used to the roads, except when confronted by tour buses who like to infringe on my side. We purchase most of the basics at a tiny market just up the road.

Crumlin Lodge: centered in the photo with white roof

Great People

Connemara people are wonderfully friendly and willing to help: Eileen McDonough, our host; the couple who own the village quick market; waitresses; shop owners ....

The tyre shop is the small metal building in back

​The morning of our first full day in Kilkieran, we started out early stopping for gas right away. We discovered a large bulge in the tire. It was obviously too hazardous to drive on. Must have resulted from my driving to close too the left edge of the road. Typically, Irish roads have little to no shoulders, hazards hidden at lane edges and incredibly narrow roads for the speed vehicles are traveling. That and Americans quickly drift left when oncoming traffic is over the line.

 The tire needed replacing and Ronan Dowd was right out back. He loaned us a new tire that was slightly too wide until the correct size could be delivered the next day.

Since I do not tend to photograph people, please enjoy this sunset and panorama.

Near Recess, Ireland

Leaving The Unexpected

I suspect we are drawn to areas unlike the ones where we live because the unfamiliar engages our senses, captures our attention, and excites the imagination. Kilkieran and the Connemara region of western County Galway felt isolated and inhospitable. Driving through parts of the Twelve Bens mountains, the sparse population was nonexistent. Many of our states have greater uninhabited expanses, but this IS unexpected Ireland. 

In the midst of the Twelve Bens

Soon, this too will become more of the verdant Emerald Isle. Helen and I preferred its stark beauty of early May: winter with a hint of spring. Even within the few days of our stay, the green was beginning to take over.

Twelve Ben Mountains

Helen next to glacial erratics

"Glacial erratics are stones and rocks that were transported by a glacier, and then left behind after the glacier melted. Erratics can be carried for hundreds of kilometers, and can range in size from pebbles to large boulders. Scientists sometimes use erratics to help determine ancient glacier movement." https://nsidc.org/cryosphere/glaciers/gallery/erratics.html

"Captain" Boycott—Yes, that "Boycott"

After seventeen years of successfully farming the difficult land of Achill Island, 'Captain' Boycott was offered a lease of 629 acres on The Neale Estate and the job of agent for Lord Erne. His primary responsibility was to collect the rents from the other 35 tenants and generally look after the estate. Envisioned as a place to live out his years in comfort, an economic downturn destroyed his dream. As was the practice of the day, many of the tenant farmer's annual contracts were not renewed. Carrying out the orders of Lord Erne, 'Captain' Boycott sent out foreclosure notices. The tenants refused to work the land.

Church on The Neale Estate  

"On 22 September David Sears, a process-server, and an escort of seventeen RIC constables began serving Lord Erne’s defaulting tenants around the Neale with eviction notices, but they were soon forced back to Lough Mask House by the local women under a shower of stones, mud and manure. It seems that at this stage ‘Captain’ Boycott had been targeted by the Land League (founded in October 1879) as a test case ‘to gain the eyes and ears of the world’, because the following day his farm was invaded by a mob of up to 100 people and his work force warned off." — http://www.historyireland.com/18th-19th-century-history/captain-boycott-man-and-myth/

Boycott needed only 12 men to harvest turnips, potatoes, beets and corn, but things got out of hand. Fifty Orangemen arrived. About 900 soldiers were stationed in the immediate area during the two weeks of harvest.  

By the end of the 1880s, news coverage led to "boycotting" throughout Ireland. Within twenty years, it became well known around the world.

"Connemara is a savage beauty" – Oscar Wilde

Connemara is a district west of Galway. It is rocky and it is beautiful. Visiting in early May is ahead of the deep green hillsides of full on Spring, but the topography is truly stunning in its ruggedness.

Rugged Connemara

Yet, new life bursts from harsh land.

Where there is depth, the soil often appears to be peat. There is a spongy sensation while walking on it. Here, the chunks have been harvested, cut from a trench several feet deep. Turf cutting vs. protecting bogs is an environmental, political, economic and emotional issue. Loss of family tradition and a less expensive source for heating create financial hardship. Generations of family turf cutting have created an important habitat in addition to that of pristine bogs. The greatest damage is often attributed to commercial rather than individual harvesting. 

Connemara Bog

Not that other energy sources are without controversy. 

Across Galway Bay

In Process

As the grass in this image outside of Roundstone indicates, the Spring greening of the Emerald Isle is still "in process."

The Twelve Bens Mountain Range

THE reason for visiting Roundstone on our second full day in Ireland was to visit the shop of Ireland's Master Bodhrán Maker, Malaky Kearns. A Bodhrán (Bow-Rawn) is an 18" one sided drum made from Goatskin. We arrived a few minutes before it opened. Once inside, Helen spent a fair amount of time beating on various drums to find the one with just the right pitch. We had a delightful conversation with Mrs. Kearns, who gifted us with chocolate - a kind gesture of thanks for doing business with them. Helen's Bodhrán should arrive home shortly after we return.

The REASON for visiting the music shop, AGAIN, on our third full day, was to look at a tunable Bodhrán. One of the staff (owners) was extremely helpful selecting both instruments. Unfortunately, we did not get her name. 

Helen at Roundstone Musical Instruments

[Rich bought a hat.] 

Roundstone Musical Instruments  

Check out their website.

www.bodhrans.com

Kylemore Abbey

"A hunting lodge originally stood where the Abbey is today and it is said that Mitchell Henry and his bride, Margaret Vaughn , visited Connemara while on honeymoon in 1850. Margaret was so charmed by Connemara that Mitchell Henry returned and purchased the 15,000 acre estate as a romantic gift for her and created one of Ireland's most iconic castles." — Kylemore Abbey Guide

Kylemore Abbey  

​In 1874, while on holiday in Egypt, Margaret became ill with dysentery and died. Mitchell had the church built in her memory.

The "cathedral in miniature." 

After several owners, Kylemore became an Abbey in 1920 with the arrival of Benedictine nuns, who fled their monastery at Ypres, Flanders, during WWI. The nuns remain in residence as Directors of the Kylemore Trust.